The Petzl Foundation wishes to contribute to improving safety conditions in this key passage.
What is the ideal time of day to cross the couloir and climb the Goûter ridge?Located between the Tête-Rousse refuge (3,167 m) and the Goûter refuge (3,835 m), Sometimes called the "death couloir", it is particularly difficult in high summer, as it is swept by frequent rockfalls. Par Julien Tilmant. Quelques voiles nuageux sans conséquences. To conquer the summit, the mountaineers must go to the “Grand couloir du Goûter” unavoidable on the normal route. Hier, mercredi 8 juillet à 12h20, un homme de 65 ans a dévissé et s’est tué en redescendant du sommet du mont Blanc. 38% of casualties were located within the first hundred metres of the first crossing of the Goûter couloir and 28% in the 550 metre long ridge directly beneath the former Goûter refuge. Our study is based on a partial observation of a statistical analysis conducted over 42 days in the field. Each print / digital issue and the website is packed with detailed coverage of key news, destination articles, interviews, gear reviews, Regular columnists Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson, stunning photography, coaching and training. Climber magazine provides all you need to know about rock climbing - indoor and outdoor, mountaineering and bouldering. The years specified are those during which the equipment was in place. Which periods are the most dangerous for mountaineers? From 1990 to 2011, the police force registers show 291 persons rescued during 256 incidents, which resulted with 74 deaths and 180 injuries. From 1990 to 2017, French mountain police force registers show 347 rescue operations in the Goûter couloir which resulted in 102 deaths and 230 injuries.Now, a new study carried out by the EDYTEM - ISTerre laboratories and supported by the Petzl Foundation, helps to better understand how rockfall occurs in the Goûter couloir, on the normal route up Mont Blanc.This study, conducted using seismic sensors, has been published to improve our knowledge of the causes of rock destabilisation. Mercredi 29 et jeudi 30 juillet dans la matinée, ils sont nombreux à avoir fait demi-tour. But stone fall remains an important hazard all day. Among the suggested solutions, is a narrow tunnel which isconsidered to be fully viable and appropriate. Despite strong annual variations, the number of casualties seems to be stable in the long term (more than 3 dead and 8 injured on average per year). A Solutions to objective dangers have been suggested which necessitate the installation of light mountain equipment, on the part of the couloir which is most exposed. A new study carried out by the EDYTEM – ISTerre laboratories, supported by the Petzl Foundation, has been conducted to better understand how rockfalls occur in the Goûter couloir… The Chamonix PGHM took off around 10pm to recover the body in a clear, windless night. » During this period, the engineers spent 42 days in the field, however, during this whole study 754 “stone fall” events were recorded of which 251 consisted of a single rock during the event (33%), 140 with 4 rocks at a time (19%) and 363 events with more than 5 rocks (48%). Though often hemmed in by sheer cliff walls, couloirs may also be less well-defined, and often simply a line of broken talus or scree ascending the mountainside and bordered by trees or other natural features. Accueil > Sorties > Aiguille du Goûter, Grand Couloir Ouest : Sortie du 22 mai 2020 par JB de Miscault. However, most of the summit contenders, expert mountaineers or not, must go through this couloir, which isunavoidable on the normal route.It is important to clearly separate the issue of a route’s difficultyfrom thatcaused by its dangers. Grand Couloir du Goûter Refuge Automatic camera (2016-17-18-19) Weather station Rain gauge Figure 1. A couloir may be a seam, scar, or fissure, or vertical crevasse in an otherwise solid mountain mass. Geology. MONT BLANC: WHEN AND WHY DO ROCKS FALL IN THE COULOIR DU GOÛTER?
par Arnaud P 8 juillet 2020 8 juillet 2020 Avec 102 morts entre 1990 et 2017, la voie normale du Mont-Blanc n’est pas sans danger.
direction of travel and the time at which they passed; - high-resolution topographical measurements
A monitoring system for a better assessment of their vulnerability. Various projects have been considered and studied. They recorded 363 mountaineers in difficulty due to rock fall. Le couloir du Goûter, souvent appelé « couloir de la mort » est l’une des zones les plus dangereuses et les plus meurtrières. The second accident occurred yesterday morning 4th October 2017. Alpinisme | Couloir du Goûter ] Nouvelle étude sur les chutes de pierres dans le couloir du Goûter : des informations précieuses pour les alpinistes ! The Couloir du Goûter on Mont Blanc is one of the most dangerous crossing in the Alps. On the contrary, stone falls reduce when the weather is more humid. (...) 19 Jul RELEASE OF PROVISIONAL 2020-2021 UIAA ICE CLIMBING CALENDAR. As Dr Carolina Adler, MPC President, explains:The latest study – by Jacques Mourey – can be downloaded Founded in 1932, the UIAA is the international federation for climbing and mountaineering.
Monday 13th July 2020; A Petzl Foundation study helps provides crucial information on crossing the dangerous Couloir du Goûter, Mont Blanc. Couloir du Goûter, Mont Blanc. During the observation period in the 2011 season, one thousand mountaineers were confronted by stone fall while they were crossing the couloir. The study does, however, give an unquestionable level of seriousness to both stone fall and also to the number of mountaineers exposed whilst crossing the Goûter couloir.